Zürich

Zürich-what a city to call home. Switzerland is truly one of the most beautiful countries to live in and Zürich has no shortage of local sights to soak in. Switzerland’s largest city offers so much beyond the stereotypes and is not the sleepy, stuffy, Type-A city it once was. The city has changed massively in the last ten years since living here and offers much more in terms of culture, restaurants, retail and nightlife than it once did!

Zürch is the perfect stop on a wider European trip as Switzerland borders Austria, France, German, Liechtenstein and Italy- you can reach most major European cities via train, car, or plane in a short period of time.

For some, the Swiss sticker shock may still take some time to get over but if you come from a larger, international city you can rest assured you won`t fall off your chair when the bill comes.

While Zürich is a great addition to a trip, any time of year, we love it best in the summer and autumn. Of course, skiers will argue that December-March is the best time to pair a city trip with a weekend in the Alps. However, the city can come across as grey and gloomy in the winter months so if you want to get the most out of your Züri experience, plan to come June- late September. The city really brings on a whole different vibe come Summer. Lakefront BBQs, busy cafes, outdoor festivals, and lunch-break swims at the local Badi’s seem to be the norm throughout the city.

Zurich Airport is a breeze compared to most- it is clean, efficient and well, just Swiss. The airport is located only 10km from the city-center and Zürich HB (the main train station)which can easily be reached within 10-15 minutes with trains running every 5-10 minutes. Buy a train ticket at the airport at one of the many SBB ticket stands above the escalators or download the SBB App while you are here to buy the tickets via your mobile. Zurich also has Uber and Taxi`s if you prefer to transfer to the city via car. Depending on weekday traffic, this will likely take around 15-25 minutes.

While in Zürich, attempt to speak a little German or Swiss German if you know it!! It will go a long way with the Swiss (especially if you are outside the city in the germanic speaking part) however, you can easily get by with English in the city as it is so international.

EAT

Zurich offers some great dining options- it may not be London or Paris but it does offer an international dining experience in addition to the local Swiss staples. While here, be sure not to miss trying some of the traditional dishes Älplermagronen, Nüsslisalat, Cordon Bleu, Rösti, Raclette and of course, the beloved cheese Fondue.

We have featured some of our favorite spots herein but have pinned several others in the map directly so check out whats nearby based on your own travel plans!

Adlisberg Traditional Swiss restaurant outside the city-center serving local and classic, seasonal dishes. Expect a warm, cozy and authentic experience.

Bauernschanke This lovely modern Swiss restuarant in Old town does not disappoint! They feature seasonal specialities and some modern takes on the Swiss classics. If its on the menu, be sure to try the Parmesean Milk rolls!

Co Chin Chin Trendy vietmanese spot in the red light district. Best paired with a pre/post dinner drink at Kasheme.

Degenried Relaxed, cozy Swiss spot in the forrest above Zurich. We love combining this spot with a walk/hike on a sunny day!

Josef European dishes served in small plates and great cocktails. A go-to when we have out-of-town visitors for something a little different.

IGNIV Zurich This two-star Michelen Restuarant is nestled in Old Town and is the perfect spot for a special night out. Expect creative dishes to test your palet throughout the night. The food and service are excellent! We are still thinking about the dessert bar to cap off our night.

Grand'in Osteria Smaller Italian spot in Kreis 8 which consistently offers a great atmosphere, food, wine, and overall experience.

La Baracca- This hole in the wall restaurant specializes in delicious homeade italian dishes. The Tagliatelle Bologna Mon Amour never disappoints!

Lumiere Traditional French Bistro in the heart of the city. The Entrecôte Café de Paris is a must try that will melt in your mouth!

Miracle Pizza Located in Seefeld (Kreis 8), this neighborhood spot is a go-to for a casual Pizza dinner.

Kronenhalle This is a classic Zürich establishment dating back to 1924. Make a booking and enjoy traditional Swiss-French dishes while surrounded by the owners impressive art collection. At a minimum, go for a drink while visiting!

Restaurant Kindli Located right off the charming Rennweg street, this traditional spot exceeds expectations in mastering the classic Swiss dishes. Opt for a table outside in the summer and start with a Hugo Spritz. First timers in Zürich, try the Zürcher Geschnetzeltes.

Ornellaia High end Italian- owned by the Bindella family- this reputable spot specializes in Tuscan dishes and is the perfect spot for special evening out.

The Restuarant at the Dolder Grand. This two Michelin star experience is incredible with modern and creative dishes accompanied by an exquisite wine menu. Try to reserve a table near the window and admire the views over Zürich city and the lake.

Here are our go-to American style restuarants around the city:

Brisket The only reputable spot in the city when craving Texas style BBQ - great cocktails too!

Fork and Bottle Solid spot year-around but their patio is a crowd favorite. A hit for both brunch and lunch- we love to pair this spot with a walk around Allemend or Uetliberg. Known for their craft beers and Burgers. Our regular is the Southern Fried Chicken burger

The Bite- Looking for a no frills spot for a solid burger and fries- this is your place

Yardbird - For those nights when you crave a little Southern Fried Chicken and wings.

For vegetarians and vegans, be sure to try out local favorites Kle, Dar or Neuetaverne

Brunch favorites

Artisan Located near Wipkingen, this organic brunch spot is a delight in the warmer months with an inviting terrace and seasonal menu.

Bohemia A go-to for brunch in Seefeld - try the bagel florentine

Grain Local Sunday Brunch spot- were you can find craft beer, bloody marys and breakfast burritos - the start you need after a long night!

Milchbar Cute little Swiss cafe near Paradeplatz- great for a coffee or a longer linger and a bite.

Montmarte Un petit cafe- this little french spot is perfect for a coffee and crossaint to get your day started

The Storchen Upscale brunch in the city on the Limmat River. Expect a set menu which includes drinks and a bottle of Champagne (unfortunately it is not bottomless!)

Chocolate shops

Be sure to check out Confiserie Sprüngli or Läderach during one of your visits. At Sprüngli try a schoggi brioche and their Luxemburgerli’s (cream-filled pastry) and at Läderach, try their traditional FrischSchoggi (chocolate bricks)

DRINK

Bauschaenzli Casual and inviting beer garden in the heart of the city

Bar am Wasser Posh spot near the Limmat- great for cocktails & mocktails

Dante Trendy Gin bar near Langstrasse

Kasheme Good vibes bar and lounge in Kreis 5

Milchbar Our go-to coffee shop in Kreis 1

Monacle Boutique coffee and retail shop in Seefeld

The Nest Rooftop bar with amazing views over the city- they don`t take reservations so try to go during off peak hours

Raygrodski Bar Innovative cocktails in Kreis 3

Summer spots

Frau Gerolds Garten Located near the Im Viadukts, this urban garden/outdoor oasis is a great stop for a casual lunch and drink while exploring the various retail shops lining the Viadukts.

Gelati am see Don`t let the line sway your decision- this gelato is well worth the wait!

Rimini This spot doubles as a mens-only badi during the day and open bar at night. The perfect spot for a casual evening with friends. They take reservations for bigger groups

Fischers Fritz Enjoy beautiful views over lake Zürich while sipping Rosé. Book in advance.

Strozzi`s This Lakeside restuarant in Herrliberg is right on the water and offers great views for a lakeside dinner option.

Widder Garden Only open during optimal weather days (love that for them). Go for a salad and a spritz.

While visiting during the summer, be sure to check out one of the many Badi`s (natural swimming pools along the lake/rivers)

Badi Enge The place to be- Badi Enge is on the smaller side but offers arguably some of the best views of Lake Zürich and some of the best food options compared to other Badi`s.

Frauenbad Stadthausquai Right in the heart of the city, this womens only badi is a great spot to relax during the day and it becomes a unisex bar & lounge in the evening.

Badi Tiefenbrunnen This is a much larger Badi which provides space for volleyball/bocce/games, SuP rentals, etc. This is a family-friendly spot with kiddie amenities and large changing areas.

Badi Utoquai Great spot and great location- they have separate and coed sections available. Go to the roof-deck for great photos and views over the lake.

Letten This no frills hipster river side spot is a great place to day drink, soak up the sun and float down the river.

PLAY

The classic must-see stops include strolls through the Old town, “Niederdorf” (get lost in the cobble stone streets), Bahnofstrasse(main shopping street with the classic and upscale brands) and down the Limmat River. And of course no visit to Zurich would be complete without a Lakeside stroll-we recommend walking from Opernhaus down to Zürichorn. When walking through Old Town, be sure to walk up through Lindenholf to check out the locals playing chess and take in views of the charming Grossmünster church.

Zürich is very walkable but bike and scooter rentals are available throughout the city.

For a little culture check out Kunsthaus ( free on Wednesdays!) Museum Rietberg or the Swiss National Museum. Check out the websites in advance for any notable exhibits. While strolling the Old Town, be sure to check out the famous Grossmünster and Fraumünster medieval churches. While in the Grossmünster, you can climb the spiral staircase for a small donation to take in views over the Limmat River and Lake Zürich.

For a little electro party, head to Hardbrücke and check out Hive or Supermarkt. When in Langstrasse, check out Kauz, Zukunft or Longstreet Bar. Near the Opernhaus, head to Club Bellevue.

For a little relaxation, check out the Hürlimannbad Spa or go to the day-spa at the Dolder Grand Hotel.

Take in the views with a boat tour of Zürichsee. Most leave from Zürich Bürkliplatz

For some retail therapy, Banhofstrasse and Old Town will have your classic and upscale brands. If your looking for a more boutique experiene, wander through the Im Viadukts for a wider selection of European brands and wander through kreis 3, 4 & 8 for select boutiques.

The city`s most recent retail development is Europaallee next to Zürich HB. This area is full of restuarants, bars, pop-up as well as established retailers, boutique fitness studios and business. Well worth a visit if in the area.

Take a hike! On a clear day, head to the local mountain, Uetliberg which is surrounded by several hiking trails and the top offers amazing 360-degree views over Zürich. The top of Uetliberg can also be reached via train from Zurich HB.

STAY

Zurich is a small city and you really can`t go wrong. Try to stay central so you are in walking distance to most attractions. We would recommend Kreis 1, 2, 3, 4 or 8.

If you want a splash out stay, try the Baur au Lac or the Dolder Grand. The Dolder Grand is slightly outside of the city center but with public transport you can be downtown within 10 minutes.

Zermatt

One of the most well-known resorts in the Swiss Alps, Zermatt’s car free mountain village sits at the base of the iconic Matterhorn. With stunning views and slopes that pass into Italy, this spot should be high on your list!

Taking the train is the easiest option as it is just three hours from Zürich. It is also possible to drive to Täsch, park and take the regional shuttle train to the village.

EAT

Chez Heini Traditional Swiss restaurant in the village.

Chez Vrony No better place on mountain. This chic alpine hut can be reached by skiing or via the winter hiking trails near Findeln. The views are incredible and the food is to die for! Try the tart flambée. Booking needed.

Findlerhof This rustic mountain restaurant near Chez Vrony is right off the Sunegga/Findeln lift. It has unmatched views of the Matterhorn, excellent service and a variety of go-to mountain dishes. Try the rösti. Booking needed. 

Giuseppe A change of pace from the traditional Swiss menus, this Italian eatery will not disappoint!

Schäferstube Alpine chalet restaurant with huge cowbells and a traditional menu. Go for the fondue or the raclette.

Snowboat  go for a lively evening with friends. The menu changes periodically but most recently we went for the burgers and cocktails. All around great choice for a fun night out!

DRINK

Drink like a local and order a Schümli Plümli, the perfect way to warm up while skiing in the Swiss Alps!

22 Summits Just a few steps away from the Matterhorn-Express and the center of Zermatt, this new 4 star hotel is an upscale spot for a coffee or drink.

Cervo Alpine-chic chalet at the bottom of Sunnega with live music and local beers

Champagne bar As the name states, this little champagne hut is the perfect apreski stop for views of the matterhorn and flutes of champagne. Located on the ski slope down from Sunnega.

Gee's Bar Nice cocktails and live music nightly. One of the few spots in the village open late

Hennu Stall Cosy drinks at the bottom of Furi-Zermatt slope.

Papperla Pub Mix with the locals with listening to live music and DJs.

Unique Hotel Post Be sure not to miss this spot- located in the heart of Zermatt, this Hotel offers three restaurants and five different bars and clubs.

PLAY

Zermat offers year-round mountain activities, and the mountain is accessible from the village by multiple lifts: Rothhorn, Gornergrat and Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. If you are not keen on mountain sports, the village also offers other activities like wellness spas and shopping.  

Hiking (summer season) With a 400 kilometer network of hiking trails, Zermatt is famous for views at every stop. Our local favorite is the Five Lakes Trail (4-6 hours).

Matterhorn Trail (Nr. 29)-Beautiful hike from Schwarzsee - Stafelalp - Zmutt - Zermatt (station). You can also do the hike in reverse but be sure to check that the gondola at Schwarzsee is running!

Furi Suspension Bridge Trail (Nr. 17a) The suspension bridge reaches 90 vertical metres above the Gornerschlucht gorge.  The roundtrip hike from the village is about 1.5 hours. Follow trail signs for “Hängebrückenweg Furi”

Mountain biking, climbing, etc.

Ski or snowboard Zermatt has over 360 kilometers of the most amazing ski slopes at affordable prices. The average price per lift pass is CHF 75. Here for a few days? Opt for the International pass which includes access to Breuil-Cervinia and Valtournenche in Italy.

Snowshoe or winter hiking 70 kilometers of prepared winter hiking trails for non-skiers. Hike up to Findeln (1.5 hours) and enjoy a lunch or coffee break in the small mountain village.

STAY

Ari Resort Located next to the Matterhorn express gondola station, this beautiful property offers apartment stays- all rooms include a Matterhorn view! About a 10 minute walk from the center of the village.

Chalet Castor This chalet sleeps a large group of up to eight friends. Book through Mountain Exposure Zermatt.

Hotel Bellerive One of our first experiences in Zermatt and still one of our favorites. Book early!  

Panorama Ski Lodge Chic and modern alpine flats with Matterhorn views. Dog friendly =)

Zermatt

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Jungfrau

The Jungfrau region is a picture perfect, “postcard” destination. With views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains, it is revered as one of the most beautiful valleys in Switzerland. We’ve lived in Switzerland for seven years and easily count it as one of our favorite corners of the country. Beautiful alpine meadows, waterfalls, charming chalets and iconic mountain views are waiting beyond every peak and turn.

If planning to travel in Switzerland for a few days via train, it is worth looking into the SBB Swiss pass for discounted rail tickets.

Jungfrau is a “must” stop on any Swiss holiday to connect with nature, enjoy stunning vistas of the Alps and the peaceful village life. Our favorite villages in the region include:

Grindewald Located at the foot of the Eiger North face, Grindewald offers a wide range of summer and winter activities. The village is best reached by car (2 hours) or train (2 hours 45 minutes).

Lauterbrunnen The village sits at the base of the Jungfrau valley and is surrounded by five other Swiss villages, the most notable being Wengen and Mürren. Lauterbrunnen can be reached by train and car. It is 20 minutes by train from Interlaken and 2 hours from Zurich HB. If you are traveling by car, check with your hotel or lodge on parking availability. Many offer free parking.

Mürren This quiet, car-free village offers stunning views of the Alps. We usually hike to the village but it is worth an overnight stay if it is your first time. The main street has shops with typical Swiss products and outdoor gear for local sports. From Mürren, visit the beautiful area of Allmendhubel which offers stunning views at 1907 meters. For those staying in Mürren or the other car-free village, Wengen, there is a paid parking garage next to the main stations.

Wengen Celebrated for is amazing views over the valley, Wengen offers more restaurant and nightlife options than Mürren. Stay here if traveling with a group of friends or family.

EAT & Drink

Air Time Café This is a quick(er) option for lunch in the Lauterbrunnen valley. A great spot for a sandwich and a cold beer or coffee to go.

Da Sina Pizzeria The perfect restaurant and pub combo when you have had enough cheese and chocolate. The pizzas are highly recommended and the service is friendly.

Hotel Eiger Restaurant We visited this spot after the Mountain View Trail hike for lunch. The terrace offers incredible views of the Eiger and a variety of options for meals.

Hotel Schonneg`s Restaurant 1903 This charming restaurant specializes in traditional Swiss cuisine. Try the delicious Flammkuchen!

Restaurant Baeren This spot serves up European dishes using local and regional products that vary by season. Weather permitting, try dining on the terrace to enjoy the beautiful views. En guete!

If you plan to hike and are looking to pack your lunch, there is a Coop grocery store in Wengen village near the train station. Or, checkout the local Chäs-Gruebi for cheese, wine and other regional products.


PLAY

Cable Cars An alternative to skiing, take advantage of the many trains and cable cars that feature views of the region’s highlights, including Kleine Scheidegg, Jungfraujoch and Grindewald First.

Day Hikes In late-spring through autumn, enjoy 500 kilometers of marked hiking trails with amazing views of the Alps. Check the Jungfrau region website before starting your journey, as trails may be closed in shoulder season due to snow and weather conditions. We are enclosing a few of our favorite hikes below:

Bachalpsee This circular trail begins at Grindewald-First and goes to Balalpsee and back. Round trip it takes about 1hr 45 minutes and covers 5.8km. Enjoy the alpine meadows and beautiful views of the mountain lake with the reflection of the Alps.

Mountain View Trail Looking for a hike with iconic mountain views? Look no further. This hike lies high above Lauterbrunnen valley, goes through alpine meadows and ends in Allmendhubel/Mürren. To start, take the gondola from Lauterbrunnen to Grützschalp. Follow the yellow-marked hiking signs to Allmendhubel (they will also say Mountain View Trail). Tickets for the Grützschalp gondola can be purchased via the SBB app or at the ticket counter in the Lauterbrunnen train station. One-way covers 5.1km in about 2 hrs, and is medium grade.

Panoramic Trail (Panoramaweg) This hiking trail goes from Männlichen to Kleine Scheidigg. You can, however, start your journey from Wengen by taking the cable car from Wengen to Männlichen. You can also hike this portion but it is a steep climb and will add 2-3 hours. One way, the trail is 4.5km and doable in 1.25 hrs. It is easy grade.

Jungfrau Marathon trail (partial) Looking for a longer, more challenging hike? Try the hike from Wengen —> Wengeralp —> Kleine Scheidegg through the Jungfrau Marathon trail. The length one way is 7km, taking roughly 2hr 45min, and medium grade.

Lauterbrunnen Valley There are two good options:

  • Staubbach Falls Close to the Lauterbrunnen train station, this waterfall is the third highest in Switzerland.

  • Trümmelbach Falls These famous falls comprise of 10 glacier waterfalls, that are accessible via underground lifts, tunnels, paths and platforms.

Winter Skiing Wengen’s Kleine Scheidegg-Männlichen is the ideal starting point, boasting 110 kilometers of beginner, medium and difficulty pistes. This area allows access to the neighboring resorts of Grindelwald-First and Mürren-Schilthorn. For non-skiers and boarders, it also offers toboggan runs, sledging (Swiss sledding) and 50 kilometers of winter hiking trails.

Summer Sports If planning a visit in warmer weather, do not miss the opportunity to go canyoning, paragliding, river rafting, sky-diving and zip-lining.

STAY

We recommend staying in Wengen for ease of access around the region. For a relaxing stay near the train station, we recommend Hotel Wengenerhof. While the interior is a bit dated interior (typical in Switzerland), the hotel is reasonably priced for the region. Opt for a mountain view room for amazing views of the valley. The hotel is also pet-friendly.

Another good option is Hotel Schönegg (recommended by a friend).

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Lauterbrunnen Valley /Wengen

Southern Corsica

A week in southern Corsica

Remote and rustic, Corsica is not yet as well known by the Anglo world as its southern neighbor Sardinia. The birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, for centuries Corsica was governed by the Italian Genoese, though the French eventually won the land grab. While an island in the Mediterranean, there is no party there. The Corsicans fought and won against development and today their island enjoys peaceful, Caribbean-grade beaches while avoiding the massive crowds of the Côte d'Azur. There are no hotel or restaurant chains here. Come to Corsica for real, off-the-grid rest and relaxation.

While the summer busy season is the second half of July and all of August, the island is still lovely in June and September. We recommend planning a trip longer than just a 3-4 day weekend, as the airports in the south are an hour or two by car from the best beaches.

Flights between the UK and Corsica run a few times a week, mostly on the weekends. Flights run much more frequently during the busy season between mainland France and Corsica. For easy access to the south, the closest airports are in Ajaccio and Figari. Alternatively, fly into Corsica’s capital, Bastia, which also has the island’s largest airport. However, Bastia is in the north and approximately a 2-3 hour drive south.

A rental car is absolutely needed in Corsica. Drivers take heed as the roads are winding and not for the faint-hearted. Public transport exists (though we didn’t see it), but bus routes are likely few and run far between. Many of Corsica’s prettiest beaches are remote and downhill a long, bumpy, unpaved road.

More below to help you build your itinerary for a week in southern Corsica.

EAT

Chez Ange Swanky spot at the beautiful Plage Rodinara. The road down to the restaurant and beach is long but the view was worth it. Go for lunch and try one of their decadent salads.

Chez Dume A nice, shady spot for an informal lunch in the tiny hamlet of Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano. Ask to sit on the veranda to admire the mountain view. This orange-roofed village makes for a sweet stop between Sartene and Zonza on the route through the Alta Rocca.

Hotel la Terrasse Quiet, romantic restaurant in Zonza with a beautiful view of the mountains and valley. Food is traditional Coriscan and delicious.

La Cave à Huile d'Olive While lunching in Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano don’t miss a stop to this little olive oil producer.

Rotisserie chicken This road-side delicacy seems to be the unofficial national food of Corisca. Food trucks are everywhere and the value for money really can’t be beat.

Rotisserie Chez de Franky, north of Porto Vecchio, is one such reputable truck. Pick up a rotisserie chicken with jus and sautéed onions, and a side of pommes de terre, for a casual picnic dinner.

U Arniella Cute-yet-casual beach-side restaurant in Porto Pollo. Great seafood and pizzas. Stay for drinks and the DJ after dinner.


DRINK

Domaine de San Michelli While this winery does have a small shop in Sartène, it unfortunately doesn’t offer tastings yet. However, the wine is good (if you like juicy reds!) and can be found at most restaurants and supermarkets on the island.

Pietra Try the local beer! Order a “pression” (draft) of either blonde or amber.

PLAY

Alta Rocca This mountainous region of southern Corsica features tiny, orange-roofed hamlets, stunning vistas of sharp, rocky peaks, excellent hikes and sparkling gorges. Take a break from the beaches and spend one to two days exploring Corsica’s interior.

Bonifacio Old Town This medieval fortress town overlooking the southern-most cliffs of Corsica has stood for hundreds of years, being passed back and forth between the Italians and French. Its location is incredibly dramatic, as the Old Town and citadel are built high above what appears to be a fjord leading from the Mediterranean several miles inland. While touristy, the Old Town is adorable and quintessentially medieval. Worth a few hours of exploration and an overnight in one of the romantic boutique hotels overlooking the cliffs.

Beach hopping Corsica’s beaches are world class and we spent a perfectly relaxing vacation visiting one to two beaches each day. We’ve listed our favorites below by location:

West Coast Cupabia (quiet and family-friendly), Porto Pollo (small but is connected to a sleepy little beach town), Propriano, Campomoro (hands down our favorite and worth the trek to this western tip of the island) and Roccapina (while the drive down is treacherous, the beach is beautiful. But bring supplies as there are no facilities).

North of Porto Vecchio Favone, Pinarello (stunning, quiet and family friendly)

South of Porto Vecchio Palombaggia, Rodinara, Santa Giulia (near to Porto Vecchio, each of these were definitely the busiest beaches we came across and the most glamorous in terms of clientele)

Boating There is nothing like viewing Corsica from the water. We spent a day with Crosiere Exclusive on this day trip, visiting the islands of Lavezzu and Cavallo, and the remote coastline of southeastern Corsica.

Cascades de Polischellu Natural pools within the Alta Rocca mountain canyon that runs along the D268. Park along the side of the road and find a more secluded spot to enjoy a swim and picnic lunch after hiking in the area. This is a good stop on the D268 between Zonza and Solenzara.

Sartène 16th century town that lies at the entrance to the mountainous interior, with sweeping views of the valley below. It’s is worth a drive by and stopover for an hour or two of exploration. Wine from the Sartène AOC is also renowned on the island.

Zonza Outdoors enthusiasts will delight in this tiny, traditional mountain town in the Alta Rocca region. While the streets role up at night, it is a quaint, quiet spot from which to base oneself for mountain hikes, biking and more. Our biggest regret was not spending another night here to enjoy an extra day hiking in the mountains and swimming in the gorges.

STAY

The south of Corsica is large and the drive from the west to east coast through the Alta Rocca, from roughly Propriano to Solenzara, is about two hours. On either side of the island there are many beach towns and remote beaches dotting the coastline. Corsican towns are also quite small, exempting Bonifacio and Porto Vecchio, so be prepared to relax with long dinners and early-ish bedtimes. We are enclosing a mix of suggestions for a well-rounded road trip.

Bonifacio As previously mentioned, worth staying overnight at one of the hotels overlooking the cliffs and ocean.

Porto Pollo We loved spending two nights in this quiet beach village. The 3-star Auberge Kalliste Hotel Eolabel was a cozy, unassuming option with excellent breakfasts and a two minute walk from the beach.

Porto Vecchio area While there are lots of hotels and Airbnbs close to the city center, for a peaceful retreat closer to the beaches north of Porto Vecchio, check out the 3-star resort Le Kilina. It has a pool, bar, bocce court and restaurant on-site, and its rooms are shaded by tall beach pines.

Zonza As mentioned above, we wished we had stayed another night in this Alta Rocca town. While there are several options to choose from, we enjoyed the boutique Clair de Lune, a short walk from the main street and featuring a small pool.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Corsica

Scottish Highlands

Scotland’s Highlands are not for the faint-hearted, with their rugged mountains, prehistoric stone circles, crumbling castles and incredible Scotch whisky. Those in search of a truly remote and rustic retreat will appreciate these lands, previously home to fierce warriors and tribal clans. Outlander fans, take note: the magic of the Highlands is real!

Scottish weather is notoriously temperamental, and its winters are bitter cold and the days short, given its high geographical latitude. We recommend visiting during the summer months, where temperatures in the Highlands can still hover at around 15 degrees Celsius (60 degrees Fahrenheit) during the day, and drop even lower at night.

To reach the Highlands there are a few options. Inverness is the region’s capital and accessible via plane from most UK cities. Check out the overnight New Caladonian Sleeper Train, leaving from London Euston station at around 9pm and arriving into Inverness the following morning before 9am, for a magical experience. Alternatively, fly or take the Virgin train from London directly into Edinburgh, Scotland’s de facto cultural capital, and travel northward from there. The Highlands are vast and a rental car is an absolute must for getting around. Be warned, however, as Highlands roads are generally winding, single-lane roads.

The Highlands are expansive and it can feel overwhelming to try and cram the remote, westerly Isles into the same trip as the central Cairngorms and eastern coastline. Both Inverness and Edinburgh are at least a few hours from many of the sites. Unless planning a long weekend to a specific area, take your time and plan a road trip over a series of 5 days to two weeks.

EAT

Bean for Coffee Cute cafe in Ballater for breakfast. Delicious scones.

Chalmers Bakery Known as “The Queen’s Bakery”, they have incredible savoury pies and doughnuts. Pick up a few baked goods for lunch before heading off on a hike.

Fern Cottage Mediterranean food in Pitlochry. A quiet, romantic place for dinner.

Walker’s Shortbread Factory If you are in Speyside tasting whisky, don’t miss a visit to the Walker’s factory in Aberlour. Scottish shortbread is buttery and sugary delicious-ness, and makes a great gift for friends and family back home.

DRINK

The Dores Inn Have a pint over a sun downer at this pub on the northern shores of Loch Ness. Highly recommended by the locals.

Scotch Whisky The Highlands’ fresh, clean air and mountain springs contribute to the production of incredible whisky (take note, Scottish whisky is spelled without an ‘e’, unlike its American cousins). The Highlands and Speyside (a Highlands region just east of Inverness with a high concentration of distilleries) make up two of the five prominent Scottish whisky-making regions. In Speyside, we recommend tastings at Balvanie, Glenfidditch, Glenlivet and Macallan. If traveling to Pitlochry, do not miss one of the last traditional distilleries in all of Scotland, Edradour, where you can do a full tour and tasting.

PLAY

Cairngorms National Park The UK’s largest national park is home to the Cairngorms mountain region in the eastern Highlands. These rolling, barren hills of the Cairngorms are breathtaking and home to isolated lochs, walking paths, forests, rivers, tiny villages, whisky distilleries and remote castles.

Castle hunting Scotland has hundreds of crumbling castles dotting its lands, and it can be helpful to better understand the brutal history of its clans by visiting a few. Our favorite was Balvenie, an incredibly well-preserved 16th century castle where Mary, Queen of Scots, once stayed overnight. Others in and around the Cairngorms, Inverness and Pitlochry include Ballendoch, Balmoral (The Queen’s home in Scotland), Blair, Corgarff and Urquhart (on the shores of Loch Ness, it dates over 1000 years and its ruins are worth a morning visit before the crowds come later in the day).

Clava Cairns Pre-historic burial temples and rock circles just 10 minutes east of Culloden. Outlander fans will delight in the inspiration for Craig na Dun.

Culloden Battlefield The site where Bonny Prince Charlie’s Jacobite army of Highlanders made its last stand against the British. After Culloden the British took back the Highlands, disbanded the clans and outlawed the speaking of Gaelic, forever changing the Highlander way of life. Check out the visitors’ center exhibit and walk across the lonely grounds and burial sites. Purchase tickets in advance.

Inverness The small Highlands capital is worth a visit or overnight on its own.

Loch Ness Spend a day searching for Nessie, the famed Loch Ness Monster! Spots along the roads encircling the Loch include the beautiful Falls of Foyers (a steep hike to view the falls), Fort Augustus (a charming, loch-side town and stop for lunch), the beautiful Loch Mhor, Urquhart Castle (noted above) and Suidhe Viewpoint (for sweeping views of the surrounding countryside).

Pitlochry While touristy, this village south of the Cairngorms is a great overnight stop to soak in some quintessential Scottish hospitality. We enjoyed a three mile hike that featured stops at the Black Spout falls and Edradour Distillery (see above).

Speyside Cooperage While in Speyside, do not miss a tour of this local whisky barrel-making cooperage, home to an ancient and dying art. Call in advance to schedule tours.

DAY TRIPS

Given the expansiveness of the region, we’ve grouped spots referenced above into suggested day trips.

Cairngorms National Park and Ballater Castle

Inverness, Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns

Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle and surrounding area

Pitlochry, Blair Castle and Edradour Distillery

Speyside Whisky Trail, Speyside Cooperage and Balvenie Castle

STAY

Cairngorms National Park While there are bed and breakfasts aplenty within Ballater or the National Park, we stayed several nights at the Hilton Grand Vacations at Craigendarroch resort. The Hilton was within driving distance of the Cairngorms and Speyside.

We heard great things from a friend and locals about the small villages of Elgin and Lossiemouth along the northeastern coast, also not far from Speyside.

Inverness We were with family and loved this two bedroom apartment about a 15 minute walk from the high street and main sites. It was also convenient for street parking and easy access out of town to Culloden.

Pitlochry Check out the Westlands (4-star), McKay’s Hotel and Fisher’s Hotel (budget, 3-star), all on the main high street.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Scottish Highlands