Istanbul

Istanbul straddles both Europe and Asia and for centuries has been a physical bridge between the Orient and West. The former capital of the Roman and Byzantine Empires, Istanbul was known throughout the ancient world as Constantinople. With its views of the Bosphorus Straight and Sea of Marmara, orange tiled rooftops, and Islamic minarets, it is a stunning city. Visit for the delicious Mediterranean food, shopping in the Grand Bazaar, and gorgeous architectural antiquities including the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace.

Istanbul is a delight to visit in warm weather. Go anytime spring through early summer or in the autumn. To see all the sights and fully enjoy the city, we recommend at least three days.

Be sure to check Visa requirements before visiting Turkey. Online visas can be applied for here.

From the airport, take the M1A Yenikapı - Atatürk Airport subway line to the city center. Alternatively, cabs are an option but heavy traffic can make the journey take twice as long. We would only recommend this if you arrive early morning or late in the evening.

EAT

Antiochia Hip, brick-walled restaurant in Beyoğlu with amazing food. Great spot for dinner.

Cemil Dulda'nın Yeri Mardin Meat and kebab hall next to the Grand Baazar. Try the Iskander kebab and eggplant kofte.

Dürümzade Made famous by the late Anthony Bourdain- this is a great option for a quick Kebab lunch.

Hocapasa Pidecisi Humble little lunch spot in Hocapasa serving up excellent pide (Turkish pizza). It is very near the Gülhane Parkı Çeşmesi park.

Hünkar Turkish and Ottoman food in the Nisantasi neighborhood.

Restaunt Mürver Beautiful view overlooking the Bosphorus from the top of the Novotel in Karaköy.

Tarihi Karadeniz Döner Kebab sandwiches in the Besiktas neighborhood. Great option for lunch on the go.

DRINK

Be sure to try the local tea, called çay, and Turkish coffee.

Anadolu Nargile Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi This 300 year old, former Islamic school is now a hidden shisha bar near the Grand Bazaar. This spot has an authentic, local vibe, though as with most shisha bars in Islamic countries, it does not serve alcohol.

Istiklal Caddesi There are lots of great places for drinks in the narrow streets that flow from Istiklal Caddesi, a main street near Beyoğlu and Taksim Square. Nevizade Sokak is a particularly good side street.

Mikla Trendy roof-top bar (and restaurant) in Beyoğlu. Go for cocktails and watch the sun set over the Bosphorus.

Roof Mezze 360 The name gives it away but this spot offers local Turkish dishes and drinks with amazing views across the city.

PLAY

For visits to the mosques and other monuments, we recommend buying tickets in advance. The lines are a cluster and often warrant long wait times.

Dolmabahce This is the former palace and place of death of Atatürk, the Turk hero who brought down the Ottoman Empire.

Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower) Medieval tower in Karaköy quarter of the city. Historically, this was the city watchtower and now welcomes visitors to see a 360 view over Istanbul at the top of the tower.

Galataport Cruise port in the heart of Istanbul at the waterfront neighborhood of Karaköy. This new development offers restaurants, shopping, culture, and offers a beautiful promenade over the Bosphorus.

Hagia Sophia This must see Orthodox church was converted into a mosque by Muslims. After you have toured the interior, grab a Turkish coffee on the terrace of nearby restaurant Seven Hills for the best views.

Kapali Carsi Grand Bazaar. Some of our favorite shops include:

Koç In need of a leather Jacket? They have two shops, one in front of the other, but try the smaller shop. The seller speaks good English.

Recep Karaduman Beautiful Turkish Carpets, worth the visit even if you are not looking to buy.

Kiz Kulesi (Maiden's Tower) Go by ferry and enjoy the beautiful views of Istanbul and the Bosphorus from the top of the tower.

Sultanahmet Known as the Blue Mosque, this active place of worship is famous for its blue tiled interior and architecture. It is a 10 minute walk from the Hagia Sophia. Free entry.

Taksim Square The heart of the trendy Beyoğlu neighborhood, this is a hot spot for cafes, bars and people watching.

Topkapi Palace This old Ottoman palace overlooking the city which was the center of Istanbul.

Turkish Baths There are many. Don’t miss trying one!

STAY

Sultanahmet is a neighborhood close to most of the major sites but does not offer many restaurant options. We enjoyed Hotel Niles Istanbul, a tiny, boutique hotel with a lovely roof terrace that is a few blocks from the Grand Bazaar.

Otherwise, check out Beyoğlu, Beşiktaş or Nişantaşi neighborhoods. Beyoğlu is known for its proximity to bars, restaurants and shopping.

Istanbul

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Bordeaux

Picture a mini Parisian city, without the crowds but surrounded by the most significant wine-growing terrior in France - this is Bordeaux! Expect incredible places to wine and dine, amazing architecture and an all around charming city.

Bordeaux is the largest and most significant wine growing region in France. It is the leading appellation (AOC) of France, attributed to the great diversity and high quality of its terrior. If you enjoy wine, this should be a must stop region when in France.

Bordeaux is located in the southwestern region of France and easily reached by car, plane or train. Arriving by plane? We recommend flying into Bordeaux-Merignac International Airport (BOD), which is about 10 kilometers from the city center. There is also a high-speed train (TGV) from Paris-Montparnasse which only takes two hours.

In wine terms, the city is divided into two parts, the Left Bank were you’ll find the famous, premium AOCs of Margaux, Médoc, Graves and Sauternes, and the Right Bank where you’ll find Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. Four of the most well known appellations on the Left Bank are St-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint Julien and Margaux.

EAT

Bordeaux offers a taste of many French delicacies in the city and surrounding regions. There is so much to try that you can easily fill up a weekend eating and drinking your way through the city. Note that some restaurants close between lunch and dinner service, so be sure to time meals accordingly! Reservations are recommended (especially in the current COVID-19 environment) .

Chai Pascal A more casual option compared to L'Huitrier Pie but tasty nonetheless! Great for lunch.

Restaurant Cromagnon Chef Oxana delights with a creative menu, combining flavors and tastes to excite your pallet. Order a la carte or go for the tasting menu with the wine pairing.

L'Huitrier Pie Another amazing stop. This gem is right off the main entrance to the city of Saint-Émilion and should be at the top of your list. Beautifully crafted plates with an explosion of flavors, this stop was a genuine delight.

Le M Lovely ambience and incredible modern, French food. This spot should be high on your list. We chose the five course tasting menu: unforgettable!

Marché des Capucins is a historical local market offering local produce, cheese & wine, plus prepared foods & coffee.

The Place du Parlement is a square filled with great restaurants right in the city center.

Restaurant Soléna This Michelin star spot is well worth a visit. The food is creative but not overwhelming. Dishes are fairly simply (no more than three ingredients per recipe). They also offer a surprise menu for those daring to try!

DRINK

We highly recommend booking a wine tour or renting a car for a self-guided tour through the region. There is so much to see and try in the region. If you chose the self-guided route, be sure to research and select your wineries in advance, making reservations where needed.

Not keen on driving? We loved our tour with Ophorus. The company offers small group tours with English speaking guides. We have been on both the Medoc and the Bordeaux, full day tours. We really enjoyed the wine tastings and freedom provided in the tour to explore Saint Émilion.

The following are a few of our favorite places for wine and more:

Cave Wine Not Traditional wine shop in Saint-Émilion where you can organize tours and tastings, or simply stop in and buy your favorite vintage.

L’Alchimiste Right off the main street, this is a cute little spot to grab a coffee and chill. The service is very friendly.

Le Bar à Vin Wine bar offering local Bordeaux wines.

Thunevin Wine producer, distributer and shop located in Saint-Émilion. We stopped in to try a few wines are were not disappointed. The owner was very kind, spoke English with us and explained all of the wines in great detail.

PLAY

Garaonne Riverfront Promenade Perfect for a walk!

Jardin Public a beautiful 25 acres of gardens, small ponds, bridges, and flowers. This is the perfect spot to relax, picnic, go on a run through, or even nap. Passing through, stop at the l’Orangerie for coffee or lunch.

La Cité du Vin A museum dedicated to all things wine. Learn about the history, geography, geology, and also how it’s made around the world.

Miroir d’Eau - Be sure to check out the world’s biggest reflecting pool. Take a stroll along the river and enjoy the beautiful reflections of the Place de la Bourse.

Porte Cailhau Visit this historic site which used to be the main entrance into the old city walls of Bordeaux.

Shop and stroll through Sainte Catherine Street, with over a kilometer of boutiques, restaurants and bars. For smaller boutiques with local designers, try Mieux and Apache.

DAY TRIPS

Saint-Émilion is definitely a must stop for wine lovers, but this medieval, UNESCO World Heritage Site is charming with or without wine. The town is about 40 minutes from Bordeaux. We have noted above some of our favorite restaurants in the area.

Head west to the sea and check out Arcachon Bay. The perfect stop for sunshine, world renowned oysters and some prestigious wine.

Rent a car for a day and head to the beautiful beaches in Biarritz. Biarritz is located 2.5 hours from Bordeaux, and an awesome place to go to enjoy the sun, sand and surf. In the evening, be sure to check out Les Halles, the trendy area of Biarritz.

STAY

We recommend staying in the city center if you are only in Bordeaux for a few days and doing day trips to the vineyards. If you are not interested in a city stay, try Saint Émilion as your base. We personally prefer to stay in AirBnbs in this region. There are several options in the city which allow you a bit more flexibility and price ranges.

Chateau Gassies This is BnB offers the perfect stop away from it all. A great place to stay in the summer, fully equipped with a swimming pool, gym and sauna. Breakfast served daily but no restaurant on-site so plan to dine outside the Chateau in the evenings.

In the city, we enjoyed our stay at La Maison Bordeaux, a boutique 4-star hotel. This dog-friendly hotel was a great option for exploring the city and in walking distance to all major sites and top restaurants. Breakfast is available but not included.

Yndo Hotel A beautiful boutique hotel in the heart of the city! This private 19th century mansion has been transformed into a five-star hotel. The hosts are warm and welcoming and there is a restaurant on-site to indulge in.

If you are staying in wine country, we loved our stay at Chez Henri . This simple and rustic BnB is 10 minutes from St. Émilion . The owner, Henri, is a kind-hearted Norwegian sommelier who will ensure you have the best stay. He is even available as a guide for wine tastings and tours.

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Corfu

With thanks to guest contributors Anna and Patrick Lau

A LONG WEEKEND IN CORFU

Just miles from northwestern Greece and southwestern Albania, Corfu is the second largest of the Greek Ionian Islands and the best known. There is something for everyone here, and adventure seekers will enjoy hiking the dry, mountainous interior and history buffs will appreciate the UNESCO World Heritage old town within Corfu Town. Families and sun-seekers in search of a Mediterranean beach holiday will not be disappointed by the eastern shore’s calm waters and bleached, pebble beaches.

Most major cities in Europe have direct flight’s into Corfu’s Ioannis Kapodistrias Corfu international airport. Those traveling from further afield can transfer through Athens. Unless staying at a resort, we recommend hiring a car to explore on your own.

The high season (and busiest time) on the island is June through August, but the Corfu sun can be oppressive in summer. While we visited at the end of August, we would also recommend the shoulder season. The beaches will be no less beautiful in May or September!

Check out our top tips for how to spend a long weekend in Corfu.

EAT

Al’s Taverna Quiet, beachside taverna at Ipso’s Beach.

Aphrodite’s Grocery and Bakery Hands down, this family-owned grocery and bakery in Nissaki was the best. Order groceries in advance and throughout your stay directly from Aphrodite who can arrange delivery. Definitely go into the bakery and patisserie. They make incredible baklava!

Papagiorgis Patiserie-Gelateria The spot for gelato in Corfu Town. They also have vegan options.

Porta Remoundaj Classic Greek taverna in Corfu Town.

Salto Wine Bar and Bistro A friend coined it the best meal she had in Corfu Town! Also a wine bar.

Yiannis Taverna Krouzeri Friendly taverna with tasty eats on Nissaki Beach. Also a good spot for sundown drinks.

DRINK

Mikro Cafe Super cute cocktail bar in Corfu Town.

Nicoluzo Winery This boutique cellar door once held the title for Greece’s smallest winery. While the humble abode is not much to look at, winemaker Anastasio Nicoluzo is an excellent storyteller and makes damn good wine. You won’t find his bottles really anywhere else - he only sells direct to drive-by visitors, a handful of restaurants and private yachts. Call in advance before stopping by. Tastings are not available here.

Theotoky Estate This organic, family-owned winery is the most prestigious and well-known on the island. They produce a white, rose and red variety (highly recommend the white). Tours and tastings are available.

PLAY

Nissaki Beach A lovely beach on the northeast shore facing Albania. Parking is available as are umbrella and beach chair hires.

Old Venetian Fortress Worth a poke around while spending the day in Corfu Town. Lots of history here and great views of the city.

Palaiokastritsa This village on Corfu’s northwest coast makes for an excellent day trip. Visit the Monastery Paleokastritsa and stop by Akron Beach Bar and Restaurant for a beach swim and lunch.

Yacht Hop Explore Corfu by water for the day. We hired a large vessel with Yacht Hop and spent the day cruising and swimming around the island. Also check out Corfu Yachting.

STAY

The northeast beaches are some of the nicest on the island with smooth, bleached pebbles and calm waters. Our group stayed in a large villa in the hillside above Nissaki beach. MyVilla Corfu had gorgeous views of the water and was well equipped for a group of 15.

Friends spent a few nights in Corfu Town and loved the Siorra Vittoria Boutique Hotel, an 1832 converted mansion next to the town square.

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Corfu

Southern Corsica

A week in southern Corsica

Remote and rustic, Corsica is not yet as well known by the Anglo world as its southern neighbor Sardinia. The birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, for centuries Corsica was governed by the Italian Genoese, though the French eventually won the land grab. While an island in the Mediterranean, there is no party there. The Corsicans fought and won against development and today their island enjoys peaceful, Caribbean-grade beaches while avoiding the massive crowds of the Côte d'Azur. There are no hotel or restaurant chains here. Come to Corsica for real, off-the-grid rest and relaxation.

While the summer busy season is the second half of July and all of August, the island is still lovely in June and September. We recommend planning a trip longer than just a 3-4 day weekend, as the airports in the south are an hour or two by car from the best beaches.

Flights between the UK and Corsica run a few times a week, mostly on the weekends. Flights run much more frequently during the busy season between mainland France and Corsica. For easy access to the south, the closest airports are in Ajaccio and Figari. Alternatively, fly into Corsica’s capital, Bastia, which also has the island’s largest airport. However, Bastia is in the north and approximately a 2-3 hour drive south.

A rental car is absolutely needed in Corsica. Drivers take heed as the roads are winding and not for the faint-hearted. Public transport exists (though we didn’t see it), but bus routes are likely few and run far between. Many of Corsica’s prettiest beaches are remote and downhill a long, bumpy, unpaved road.

More below to help you build your itinerary for a week in southern Corsica.

EAT

Chez Ange Swanky spot at the beautiful Plage Rodinara. The road down to the restaurant and beach is long but the view was worth it. Go for lunch and try one of their decadent salads.

Chez Dume A nice, shady spot for an informal lunch in the tiny hamlet of Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano. Ask to sit on the veranda to admire the mountain view. This orange-roofed village makes for a sweet stop between Sartene and Zonza on the route through the Alta Rocca.

Hotel la Terrasse Quiet, romantic restaurant in Zonza with a beautiful view of the mountains and valley. Food is traditional Coriscan and delicious.

La Cave à Huile d'Olive While lunching in Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano don’t miss a stop to this little olive oil producer.

Rotisserie chicken This road-side delicacy seems to be the unofficial national food of Corisca. Food trucks are everywhere and the value for money really can’t be beat.

Rotisserie Chez de Franky, north of Porto Vecchio, is one such reputable truck. Pick up a rotisserie chicken with jus and sautéed onions, and a side of pommes de terre, for a casual picnic dinner.

U Arniella Cute-yet-casual beach-side restaurant in Porto Pollo. Great seafood and pizzas. Stay for drinks and the DJ after dinner.

DRINK

Domaine de San Michelli While this winery does have a small shop in Sartène, it unfortunately doesn’t offer tastings yet. However, the wine is good (if you like juicy reds!) and can be found at most restaurants and supermarkets on the island.

Pietra Try the local beer! Order a “pression” (draft) of either blonde or amber.

PLAY

Alta Rocca This mountainous region of southern Corsica features tiny, orange-roofed hamlets, stunning vistas of sharp, rocky peaks, excellent hikes and sparkling gorges. Take a break from the beaches and spend one to two days exploring Corsica’s interior.

Bonifacio Old Town This medieval fortress town overlooking the southern-most cliffs of Corsica has stood for hundreds of years, being passed back and forth between the Italians and French. Its location is incredibly dramatic, as the Old Town and citadel are built high above what appears to be a fjord leading from the Mediterranean several miles inland. While touristy, the Old Town is adorable and quintessentially medieval. Worth a few hours of exploration and an overnight in one of the romantic boutique hotels overlooking the cliffs.

Beach hopping Corsica’s beaches are world class and we spent a perfectly relaxing vacation visiting one to two beaches each day. We’ve listed our favorites below by location:

West Coast Cupabia (quiet and family-friendly), Porto Pollo (small but is connected to a sleepy little beach town), Propriano, Campomoro (hands down our favorite and worth the trek to this western tip of the island) and Roccapina (while the drive down is treacherous, the beach is beautiful. But bring supplies as there are no facilities).

North of Porto Vecchio Favone, Pinarello (stunning, quiet and family friendly)

South of Porto Vecchio Palombaggia, Rodinara, Santa Giulia (near to Porto Vecchio, each of these were definitely the busiest beaches we came across and the most glamorous in terms of clientele)

Boating There is nothing like viewing Corsica from the water. We spent a day with Crosiere Exclusive on this day trip, visiting the islands of Lavezzu and Cavallo, and the remote coastline of southeastern Corsica.

Cascades de Polischellu Natural pools within the Alta Rocca mountain canyon that runs along the D268. Park along the side of the road and find a more secluded spot to enjoy a swim and picnic lunch after hiking in the area. This is a good stop on the D268 between Zonza and Solenzara.

Sartène 16th century town that lies at the entrance to the mountainous interior, with sweeping views of the valley below. It’s is worth a drive by and stopover for an hour or two of exploration. Wine from the Sartène AOC is also renowned on the island.

Zonza Outdoors enthusiasts will delight in this tiny, traditional mountain town in the Alta Rocca region. While the streets role up at night, it is a quaint, quiet spot from which to base oneself for mountain hikes, biking and more. Our biggest regret was not spending another night here to enjoy an extra day hiking in the mountains and swimming in the gorges.

STAY

The south of Corsica is large and the drive from the west to east coast through the Alta Rocca, from roughly Propriano to Solenzara, is about two hours. On either side of the island there are many beach towns and remote beaches dotting the coastline. Corsican towns are also quite small, exempting Bonifacio and Porto Vecchio, so be prepared to relax with long dinners and early-ish bedtimes. We are enclosing a mix of suggestions for a well-rounded road trip.

Bonifacio As previously mentioned, worth staying overnight at one of the hotels overlooking the cliffs and ocean.

Porto Pollo We loved spending two nights in this quiet beach village. The 3-star Auberge Kalliste Hotel Eolabel was a cozy, unassuming option with excellent breakfasts and a two minute walk from the beach.

Porto Vecchio area While there are lots of hotels and Airbnbs close to the city center, for a peaceful retreat closer to the beaches north of Porto Vecchio, check out the 3-star resort Le Kilina. It has a pool, bar, bocce court and restaurant on-site, and its rooms are shaded by tall beach pines.

Zonza As mentioned above, we wished we had stayed another night in this Alta Rocca town. While there are several options to choose from, we enjoyed the boutique Clair de Lune, a short walk from the main street and featuring a small pool.

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Corsica