Western Cornwall

A WEEK IN WESTERN CORNWALL

Cornwall is the land of legends — literally — as English lore tells it was home to warrior King Arthur and his Camelot. After spending a week in western Cornwall, we were charmed by not only its history (it’s also known for piratical activities and the smuggling trade), but rugged coastline, splendid hikes, stunning beaches and incredible seafood. The Cornish peninsula is home to both the most westerly and southerly points on the British mainland, and the Atlantic Gulf Stream warms its waters and climate, making it the sunniest spot in the UK. We felt the peninsula’s beautiful beaches were akin to those we’ve seen in Bermuda and elsewhere in the Caribbean.

Western Cornwall is an easy drive from London (roughly five hours, passing by Stonehenge), but it is also possible to train from major cities in the mainland UK or to fly into Newquay, the commercial airport that serves Cornwall. We recommend driving as there is much to see and many remote areas where a car is necessary. Take care while driving as roads are small and hemmed in by high hedges which affects visibility.

Prior to your visit, consider purchasing a National Trust membership. The National Trust looks after many of the nation’s coastlines, historic sites and countryside and green spaces, and is the biggest conservation charity in Europe. National Trust members receive free entrance and parking at many beaches and sites across Cornwall.

EAT

The Allotment Deli This sweet shop on Fore Street in St. Ives features local produce, cheese, beer and wine and more. It’s the perfect stop to satisfy your beach picnic needs.

Porthminster Beach Cafe Upscale dining on the beach and an excellent wine list. Perfect for date night or dinner with friends. Bookings essential.

Porthmeor Beach Cafe This trendy eatery overlooks Porthmeor Beach and the St. Ives’ coastline. Go for lunch or brunch then spend a few hours at the beach. Make a booking in advance.

Moomaid of Zennor Ice Cream Parlour Their shipwreck flavor is the best in town!

Rock Pool This hidden gem in Mousehole has a lovely, tiny patio that overlooks rock pools and Saint Michael’s Mount island. We recommend it for lunch or a sunset cocktail and snack. Try the crab sandwich.

Roly’s Fudge Pantry Try their famous vanilla clotted cream fudge.

St. Ives Bakery Several merchants mentioned that this bakery had the best bread in town and they weren’t wrong. Don’t miss the Turkish loaf or the jam-filled “cruffin” (a cross between a croissant and muffin).

Yellow Canary Next door to The Allotment Deli, they have delicious desserts.

DRINK

The Balcony Bar & Kitchen This casual eatery and bar overlooks the St. Ives harbor and is great for an afternoon beer or cocktail. If you’re feeling peckish they also have tasty tacos.

Beer Huis Grand Cafe A Belgian beer hall in St. Ives with an extensive draft and bottle list.

Wine While English wines is generally not incredibly well known on the international market, its well past the point of up and coming and actually quite good! Many English winemakers are experimenting with cooler weather grape varieties and Cornish wineries are no exception. Here were a few of our favorites:

Knightor Vineyard A bit off the beaten path, this vineyard near the Eden Project is a favorite spot for weddings. Their wine shop has an incredibly friendly bartender and we loved their very special, limited edition Portscatho Bacchus 2018.

Polgoon Vineyard Visit for a tour and tasting, though book in advance! We enjoyed their Seyval Blanc & Ortega blend. They also produce ciders.

We heard great things about Camel Valley and Trevibban Mill wineries but were unable to visit this trip.

PLAY

Beaches Cornwall’s beaches are gorgeous - soft, white sand that spreads for meters out to sea during low tide, surrounded by dramatic cliffs and grassy highlands. There are so many spectacular spots, but our favorites in St. Ives included Porthmeor and Porthminster. We also loved the family friendly Carbis Bay Beach, a five minute train ride from St. Ives. If you are up for a drive, it’s worth checking out Chapel Porth Beach in St. Agnes and Godrevy to the north, as well as Sennen Cove near Lands End.

Hiking The South West Coast Path is England's longest waymarked long-distance footpath and a National Trail. It stretches for 630 miles from Somerset to Dorset, and lines the entire coastline of Cornwall. Download the iWalk Cornwall app for a comprehensive guide to over 200 hikes in the region. Some of our favorites included:

Lands End The most westerly point in England features incredible views of the Atlantic Ocean and coastline to the north. Head south on the trail to check out the Enys Dodnan Arch and beach. This is an easy, two hour hike.

Lizard The Lizard Peninsula is the most southerly point in on the British mainland. We didn’t make it there but our friends raved about the hiking.

Godrevy Point An easy, family friend hike around the Point with views of the lighthouse, Godrevy beach, and if you are lucky a family of beached seals!

Mousehole Harbor This tiny fishing village is a relic of the past - visit to admire its working harbor and fisherman cottages. There are a handful of great places to eat here as well.

Saint Michael’s Mount An island is famed for its medieval church and castle that rise above Mount’s Bay. At low tide the island can be accessed by walking across the Marazion beach and tidal causeway.

St. Ives St. Ives is a beautiful, hip village with a Mediterranean vibe and a large harbor that is excellent for swimming or walking during low tibe. Spend a few hours perusing its cobblestoned streets and admiring the views from its beaches and harbor. The town also has a lovely, independent boutique scene. We especially loved Sweetlime (international-inspired jewellery and home goods) and The Painted Bird (ethically sourced home goods and gifts).

Tate St. Ives An art gallery overlooking Porthmeor Beach that features modern and contemporary British works. Artists have flocked to St. Ives since the 19th century for its beautiful natural light and landscapes, and the Tate is just one of the village’s many art galleries.

Barbara Hepworth Museum & Sculpture Garden Linked to the Tate, this museum and sculpture garden feature the works of Barbara Hepworth, a modernist English sculptor and artist.

STAY

St. Ives is a great base from which to tour the rest of western Cornwall, as it has three beaches right in town, a great restaurant and pub scene, boutiques, galleries and more. You pay for the convenience, however, and finding parking can be difficult unless it is included with accommodation. We enjoyed staying at this two bedroom HomeAway property with sea views on a quiet street. St. Ives is small and most properties within the village provide easy access to all it has to offer. However, it is quite hilly with narrow streets and those who are less mobile may find it difficult to walk around.

Those looking for something a bit quieter or more affordable than St. Ives should look just a few miles southeast in Carbis Bay, a family-friendly seaside resort village with its own beach. The train from Carbis Bay to St. Ives takes approximately three to five minutes and costs just £1 each way.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Western Cornwall

Kansas City

TOP THINGS TO DO IN KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI

Travel guide and photos by guest contributor Caitlyn Camacho.

Situated almost in the exact center of the continental United States, Kansas City, Missouri calls itself the heart of America. It’s packed with history -- the start of the Oregon Trail was in nearby Independence, Missouri -- and famous for BBQ and jazz. Kansas City is the perfect low-key weekend getaway for food, music and art-lovers. We’ve outlined below our top things to do in Kansas City.

Downtown KC is a short 20 minutes from the small MCI airport. (Hot tip: The airport is so small that when flying out you don’t need to arrive 1.5-2 hours before your flight as with larger U.S. airports like San Francisco, Washington DC or NYC.) From the airport, we recommend taking an Uber if you’re planning to stay downtown. If you’re looking to explore the prairies farther afield then rent a car.

If you’re focusing your visit around downtown KC, you can ride the free KC Streetcar from the historic Union Station up to the city’s River Market district.

EAT

BBQ We’d do the city a disservice by not starting here.

For a traditional local spot, visit black-owned business Gates BBQ at one of its locations. Order at the counter and take your tray to a booth (or do carry out). Be prepared with your order when you get to the front of the line. We recommend the short ends (ribs) with fries. 

If you’re looking for a trendier BBQ experience, try Q39 in Westport. The chef puts a spin on traditional BBQ with brisket poutine and other deliciousness. The first time we went our waiter told us Gordon Ramsay had been there the previous night. 

If you want to venture north of the river (10 minutes from downtown), stop by Hawg Jaw BBQ or go next door to Big Rip Brewing (a horror/sci-fi themed brewery) for a beer sampling and BBQ.

The Antler Room Ranked one of the best restaurants in KC, this upscale small plates spot offers a seasonally-changing menu with great cocktails and wine. They’re known for their Georgian soup dumplings, but if it’s on the menu, also get the duck. Make a reservation.

Banksia A cute Australian bakery! In Kansas City! They were featured in an episode of Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives although they fit none of those categories.

Brewery Emperial In the vibrant Crossroads neighborhood, this bar features a large outdoor patio and beer garden. Inside, you’ll find a rustic 70’s vibe and bar seating over the open air kitchen. Great food (especially meats), although you can find some yummy vegetarian options like jackfruit tacos. 

Betty Rae’s Try their unique flavors like maple blueberry pancake, lavender honey, and goat cheese, apricots & candied walnuts. They also offer vegan sorbets. 

Carollo’s Italian Deli Delicious, cheap Italian sandwiches. Great for a picnic.

Fox and Pearl Delicious farm-to-table brunch spot.

DRINK

Amigoni Urban Winery A local KC winery harvesting California grapes. Come for the $10 wine tastings. 

SOT Handcrafted cocktails in the Crossroads.

East Crossroads Breweries This side of the Crossroads neighborhood is dotted with great craft breweries. You could spend a day or more hopping around and trying them all but our favorites are Border Brewing for the friendly beertenders and awesome brews like hibiscus ale, Ribbon Cutter IPA, date sour ale and the dog-friendly Casual Animal.

Strange Days Another local brewery, this is one of the larger ones and located in River Market. Also, a big soccer bar. 

City Market Coffee Grab a coffee or iced honey lavender latte and stroll down to the Town of Kansas pedestrian bridge and Riverfront Heritage Trail. 

PLAY

Boulevard Beer Hall Boulevard Brewing is KC’s largest craft brewery and you can’t miss a stop at their Beer Hall. Features floors of games like shuffleboard and foosball, tasting room only beer samples, and you can take the brewery tour. 

City Market Stop by City Market to peruse the shops, visit the weekend farmers market (one of the largest in the Midwest), or grab a coffee or sandwich from one of the local restaurants. 

Crossroads Crossroads is the vibrant art district in an area that is being revitalized by local boutiques, restaurants, breweries and distilleries. Spend an afternoon checking out the street art and bar-hopping. Visit the Made in KC flagship store for local maker gifts.

Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art A free admission art museum with rotating exhibits. Outside the museum is a sculpture park that is great for picnicking. 

Pawn and Pint A board game bar with thousands of games and a full-service bar. $5 entry fee gets you access to any games. 

Union Station KC’s historical train station. The hall has rotating exhibits and activities and is still an operating Amtrak station.

West Bottoms Don’t miss this hotspot for antique shops housed in the old warehouse district. While most of the shops are only open the first weekend of each month, you can still catch a few with hours every weekend. 

WWI Museum This is the national WWI monument and museum with tons of historical artifacts from every country involved in WWI. It makes for a great rainy day stop and is the best spot to take KC skyline photos.

DAY TRIPS

Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve Two hours from KC, the highlight here is a trail that takes you through a bison pasture. The bison roam right across the trails. Warning, stay at least 100 yards away from the bison.

Konza Prairie Biological Station Just 1.5 hrs from KC, this prairie has rolling hills and trails of 2.6 miles, 4.7 miles, or 6.6 miles. 

Western Kansas rock formations If you’re on a cross country trip or open to driving across Kansas, stop by the following spots around 5 hrs from KC: Little Jerusalem Badlands State Park and Monument Rocks. It’s hard to believe these are in Kansas! All are located off dirt county roads but well traveled so you don’t necessarily need an SUV. They’re also a little more than halfway between KC and Denver, so feel free to continue your trip to the Rockies.

STAY

Any option you choose in the downtown area will be close to the streetcar line for travel. If you’re looking for a boutique hotel experience, check out Crossroads Hotel. They’re known for their rooftop bar.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Kansas City, Missouri

Scottish Highlands

Scotland’s Highlands are not for the faint-hearted, with their rugged mountains, prehistoric stone circles, crumbling castles and incredible Scotch whisky. Those in search of a truly remote and rustic retreat will appreciate these lands, previously home to fierce warriors and tribal clans. Outlander fans, take note: the magic of the Highlands is real!

Scottish weather is notoriously temperamental, and its winters are bitter cold and the days short, given its high geographical latitude. We recommend visiting during the summer months, where temperatures in the Highlands can still hover at around 15 degrees Celsius (60 degrees Fahrenheit) during the day, and drop even lower at night.

To reach the Highlands there are a few options. Inverness is the region’s capital and accessible via plane from most UK cities. Check out the overnight New Caladonian Sleeper Train, leaving from London Euston station at around 9pm and arriving into Inverness the following morning before 9am, for a magical experience. Alternatively, fly or take the Virgin train from London directly into Edinburgh, Scotland’s de facto cultural capital, and travel northward from there. The Highlands are vast and a rental car is an absolute must for getting around. Be warned, however, as Highlands roads are generally winding, single-lane roads.

The Highlands are expansive and it can feel overwhelming to try and cram the remote, westerly Isles into the same trip as the central Cairngorms and eastern coastline. Both Inverness and Edinburgh are at least a few hours from many of the sites. Unless planning a long weekend to a specific area, take your time and plan a road trip over a series of 5 days to two weeks.

EAT

Bean for Coffee Cute cafe in Ballater for breakfast. Delicious scones.

Chalmers Bakery Known as “The Queen’s Bakery”, they have incredible savoury pies and doughnuts. Pick up a few baked goods for lunch before heading off on a hike.

Fern Cottage Mediterranean food in Pitlochry. A quiet, romantic place for dinner.

Walker’s Shortbread Factory If you are in Speyside tasting whisky, don’t miss a visit to the Walker’s factory in Aberlour. Scottish shortbread is buttery and sugary delicious-ness, and makes a great gift for friends and family back home.

DRINK

The Dores Inn Have a pint over a sun downer at this pub on the northern shores of Loch Ness. Highly recommended by the locals.

Scotch Whisky The Highlands’ fresh, clean air and mountain springs contribute to the production of incredible whisky (take note, Scottish whisky is spelled without an ‘e’, unlike its American cousins). The Highlands and Speyside (a Highlands region just east of Inverness with a high concentration of distilleries) make up two of the five prominent Scottish whisky-making regions. In Speyside, we recommend tastings at Balvanie, Glenfidditch, Glenlivet and Macallan. If traveling to Pitlochry, do not miss one of the last traditional distilleries in all of Scotland, Edradour, where you can do a full tour and tasting.

PLAY

Cairngorms National Park The UK’s largest national park is home to the Cairngorms mountain region in the eastern Highlands. These rolling, barren hills of the Cairngorms are breathtaking and home to isolated lochs, walking paths, forests, rivers, tiny villages, whisky distilleries and remote castles.

Castle hunting Scotland has hundreds of crumbling castles dotting its lands, and it can be helpful to better understand the brutal history of its clans by visiting a few. Our favorite was Balvenie, an incredibly well-preserved 16th century castle where Mary, Queen of Scots, once stayed overnight. Others in and around the Cairngorms, Inverness and Pitlochry include Ballendoch, Balmoral (The Queen’s home in Scotland), Blair, Corgarff and Urquhart (on the shores of Loch Ness, it dates over 1000 years and its ruins are worth a morning visit before the crowds come later in the day).

Clava Cairns Pre-historic burial temples and rock circles just 10 minutes east of Culloden. Outlander fans will delight in the inspiration for Craig na Dun.

Culloden Battlefield The site where Bonny Prince Charlie’s Jacobite army of Highlanders made its last stand against the British. After Culloden the British took back the Highlands, disbanded the clans and outlawed the speaking of Gaelic, forever changing the Highlander way of life. Check out the visitors’ center exhibit and walk across the lonely grounds and burial sites. Purchase tickets in advance.

Inverness The small Highlands capital is worth a visit or overnight on its own.

Loch Ness Spend a day searching for Nessie, the famed Loch Ness Monster! Spots along the roads encircling the Loch include the beautiful Falls of Foyers (a steep hike to view the falls), Fort Augustus (a charming, loch-side town and stop for lunch), the beautiful Loch Mhor, Urquhart Castle (noted above) and Suidhe Viewpoint (for sweeping views of the surrounding countryside).

Pitlochry While touristy, this village south of the Cairngorms is a great overnight stop to soak in some quintessential Scottish hospitality. We enjoyed a three mile hike that featured stops at the Black Spout falls and Edradour Distillery (see above).

Speyside Cooperage While in Speyside, do not miss a tour of this local whisky barrel-making cooperage, home to an ancient and dying art. Call in advance to schedule tours.

DAY TRIPS

Given the expansiveness of the region, we’ve grouped spots referenced above into suggested day trips.

Cairngorms National Park and Ballater Castle

Inverness, Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns

Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle and surrounding area

Pitlochry, Blair Castle and Edradour Distillery

Speyside Whisky Trail, Speyside Cooperage and Balvenie Castle

STAY

Cairngorms National Park While there are bed and breakfasts aplenty within Ballater or the National Park, we stayed several nights at the Hilton Grand Vacations at Craigendarroch resort. The Hilton was within driving distance of the Cairngorms and Speyside.

We heard great things from a friend and locals about the small villages of Elgin and Lossiemouth along the northeastern coast, also not far from Speyside.

Inverness We were with family and loved this two bedroom apartment about a 15 minute walk from the high street and main sites. It was also convenient for street parking and easy access out of town to Culloden.

Pitlochry Check out the Westlands (4-star), McKay’s Hotel and Fisher’s Hotel (budget, 3-star), all on the main high street.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Scottish Highlands

Rye

One of the prettiest and best-preserved medieval market towns in the United Kingdom, Rye is a few hours east of London in Sussex. This former port town is mere miles from the seaside and picture postcard perfect. Rye has it all with a nearby nature reserve and beach, charming cobble-stoned streets, antique boutiques and adorable pubs. A trip to Rye is a lovely way to spend a weekend.

Take a Southeastern train line from London St. Pancras Station to Rye Station in 1 to 2 hours, depending on the service. If you are coming from London and have a bike, bring it! Biking is the perfect way to traverse the three miles from the town to the nature reserve and coast.

EAT

Marino’s Fish Bar Classic fish and chips in a humble establishment.

The Mermaid Inn This restaurant, pub and inn dates back to the 12th century (though the current building was built in the 15th). It’s on the prettiest street in Rye, and maybe the United Kingdom, wethinks.

DRINK

Rye Waterworks Micropub This 300 year old former water-pump is now a teensy craft brewery. Super friendly local vibe.

The Ship Inn A 16th-century inn and pub just a block from the River Brede. Apparently it used to be a halfway house for smugglers.

Ye Olde Bell Inn It calls itself the oldest pub in Rye!

PLAY

Camber Sands This beach and dune area is three miles away but an easy bus ride from Rye. Recommended by a friend.

Mermaid Street Perhaps the most charming street in England, it is lined with medieval, Shakespearean style buildings.

Rye Harbour Natural Reserve This local nature reserve is over 1000 acres and was an important historic fortification in the 14th, 16th and 20th centuries. Buses travel regularly from Rye Station to Rye Harbour village and Winchelsea Beach near the Reserve.

St Mary’s Church A church has stood on this site for more than 900 years. Climb the bell tower for a gorgeous view of the town and sea and explore the ancient graveyard.

Strand Quay Great vintage, knick knack and homeware shopping.

Ypres Tower and Rye Castle This 13th century castle is now a quaint little museum. There is also a pretty view from the top of the tower of the coast.

STAY

Rye is an easy day trip from London but we’d recommend an overnight stay. Choose a quaint Airbnb within walking distance of the tiny town or the nature reserve. Alternatively, Rye Windmill is a historical bed and breakfast just a short walk from the town center. Recommended by a friend.

Rye

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Maasai Mara

Lion King lovers rejoice! The Maasai Mara is celebrated for its stunning grassland landscapes, the Big Five animals that traverse its more than 1500 kilometers, and its annual Great Migration of wildebeests, zebras and gazelles traveling from Tanzania’s Serengeti in the south. The Mara makes for an excellent safari holiday because it is fairly compact (as compared to the Serengeti’s 30,000 kilometers) and biodiverse, meaning you can generally see a lot of different animals within a few days. The Mara has all of the Big Five (lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and water buffalo), giraffe, zebra, various species of gazelle, crocodile, hippo, baboon, cheetah, hyena, wildebeest and more.

The best time to visit the Mara is during the Great Migration, which takes places between July and October. Note that July and August are winter in Kenya, and while the days will be warm (20s Celcius) the nights and early mornings will be cool. Also, be prepared to book in advance and pay high season rates!

Most safari camps and resorts will organize flights from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to the nearest airstrip in the Maasai Mara. Flights run back and forth daily between the Nairobi and the Mara, and should be included in a full board accommodation package.

The Maasai safari guides are amazing, and a good guide will make all the difference in a great and truly fantastic experience. Make sure to tip your guides well, this is their livelihood and most of them are sending money home.

Bring cash for tips! There are no money machines and it will likely be difficult for most camps to exchange foreign money. You may also have to pay a daily reserve fee per person in cash.

EAT

Full board will be included in most safari camp and resort packages, and will provide for three meals a day. Traditional Kenyan food has many Indian influences, and is fresh and healthy. A few things to definitely try:

Chapati Fried bread influenced by the Indian subcontinent. Eat it with everything.

Mandazi Another fried bread, this Kenyan treat is most similar to a doughnut.

Sukuma Wiki Delicious boiled greens. Similar to collards in the United States.

Ugali This starchy staple is common across Kenya and often the side dish to richer stews and curries. It is a mixture of finely-ground cornmeal and water.

DRINK

Try the local Kenyan beers. Our favorites are Tusker Lager (the most popular across East Africa) and White Cap Lager. Nothing beats an ice cold Tusker at the end of a long, dusty safari run.

PLAY

Safari This is the real reason for a trip to the Maasai Mara, and take advantage of the 2-3 safari trips that your camp will plan daily. Most will start off in the morning very early, from 5:30 or 6:00am, have breakfast on the road, and head back to camp by 11:00am for guests to have lunch and relax by the pool or in the shade during the midday heat. Go out again late afternoon for a magical experience at dusk, as the animals are generally most active during the cooler parts of the day.

Shopping The Maasai people create truly stunning handicrafts. Larger resorts and camps may have items for sale, but if not you can swing by the Maasai Market in Nairobi once back in town. Keep an eye out for beaded jewellery and wall hangings, the plaid and striped traditional shuka blankets, and woven baskets and wall hangings.

STAY

Our advice is to choose a camp that has a few amenities (pool, common area, etc.) to keep you busy during the quiet afternoon time between safari. We loved the four star Mara Intrepids camp, run by the Kenya Heritage Hotels group. Tent accommodations were luxurious, we enjoyed the pool during the day, and the staff were fantastic. We have also stayed at Virgin’s Mahali Mzuri camp, which was stunning and a true glamping experience, though it will cost you a pretty penny!

Friends have also recommended Kicheche Mara North, Mara Plains and Porini Lion camp.

Maasai Mara

LOCATIONS NEARBY