Western Cornwall

A WEEK IN WESTERN CORNWALL

Cornwall is the land of legends — literally — as English lore tells it was home to warrior King Arthur and his Camelot. After spending a week in western Cornwall, we were charmed by not only its history (it’s also known for piratical activities and the smuggling trade), but rugged coastline, splendid hikes, stunning beaches and incredible seafood. The Cornish peninsula is home to both the most westerly and southerly points on the British mainland, and the Atlantic Gulf Stream warms its waters and climate, making it the sunniest spot in the UK. We felt the peninsula’s beautiful beaches were akin to those we’ve seen in Bermuda and elsewhere in the Caribbean.

Western Cornwall is an easy drive from London (roughly five hours, passing by Stonehenge), but it is also possible to train from major cities in the mainland UK or to fly into Newquay, the commercial airport that serves Cornwall. We recommend driving as there is much to see and many remote areas where a car is necessary. Take care while driving as roads are small and hemmed in by high hedges which affects visibility.

Prior to your visit, consider purchasing a National Trust membership. The National Trust looks after many of the nation’s coastlines, historic sites and countryside and green spaces, and is the biggest conservation charity in Europe. National Trust members receive free entrance and parking at many beaches and sites across Cornwall.

EAT

The Allotment Deli This sweet shop on Fore Street in St. Ives features local produce, cheese, beer and wine and more. It’s the perfect stop to satisfy your beach picnic needs.

Porthminster Beach Cafe Upscale dining on the beach and an excellent wine list. Perfect for date night or dinner with friends. Bookings essential.

Porthmeor Beach Cafe This trendy eatery overlooks Porthmeor Beach and the St. Ives’ coastline. Go for lunch or brunch then spend a few hours at the beach. Make a booking in advance.

Moomaid of Zennor Ice Cream Parlour Their shipwreck flavor is the best in town!

Rock Pool This hidden gem in Mousehole has a lovely, tiny patio that overlooks rock pools and Saint Michael’s Mount island. We recommend it for lunch or a sunset cocktail and snack. Try the crab sandwich.

Roly’s Fudge Pantry Try their famous vanilla clotted cream fudge.

St. Ives Bakery Several merchants mentioned that this bakery had the best bread in town and they weren’t wrong. Don’t miss the Turkish loaf or the jam-filled “cruffin” (a cross between a croissant and muffin).

Yellow Canary Next door to The Allotment Deli, they have delicious desserts.

DRINK

The Balcony Bar & Kitchen This casual eatery and bar overlooks the St. Ives harbor and is great for an afternoon beer or cocktail. If you’re feeling peckish they also have tasty tacos.

Beer Huis Grand Cafe A Belgian beer hall in St. Ives with an extensive draft and bottle list.

Wine While English wines is generally not incredibly well known on the international market, its well past the point of up and coming and actually quite good! Many English winemakers are experimenting with cooler weather grape varieties and Cornish wineries are no exception. Here were a few of our favorites:

Knightor Vineyard A bit off the beaten path, this vineyard near the Eden Project is a favorite spot for weddings. Their wine shop has an incredibly friendly bartender and we loved their very special, limited edition Portscatho Bacchus 2018.

Polgoon Vineyard Visit for a tour and tasting, though book in advance! We enjoyed their Seyval Blanc & Ortega blend. They also produce ciders.

We heard great things about Camel Valley and Trevibban Mill wineries but were unable to visit this trip.

PLAY

Beaches Cornwall’s beaches are gorgeous - soft, white sand that spreads for meters out to sea during low tide, surrounded by dramatic cliffs and grassy highlands. There are so many spectacular spots, but our favorites in St. Ives included Porthmeor and Porthminster. We also loved the family friendly Carbis Bay Beach, a five minute train ride from St. Ives. If you are up for a drive, it’s worth checking out Chapel Porth Beach in St. Agnes and Godrevy to the north, as well as Sennen Cove near Lands End.

Hiking The South West Coast Path is England's longest waymarked long-distance footpath and a National Trail. It stretches for 630 miles from Somerset to Dorset, and lines the entire coastline of Cornwall. Download the iWalk Cornwall app for a comprehensive guide to over 200 hikes in the region. Some of our favorites included:

Lands End The most westerly point in England features incredible views of the Atlantic Ocean and coastline to the north. Head south on the trail to check out the Enys Dodnan Arch and beach. This is an easy, two hour hike.

Lizard The Lizard Peninsula is the most southerly point in on the British mainland. We didn’t make it there but our friends raved about the hiking.

Godrevy Point An easy, family friend hike around the Point with views of the lighthouse, Godrevy beach, and if you are lucky a family of beached seals!

Mousehole Harbor This tiny fishing village is a relic of the past - visit to admire its working harbor and fisherman cottages. There are a handful of great places to eat here as well.

Saint Michael’s Mount An island is famed for its medieval church and castle that rise above Mount’s Bay. At low tide the island can be accessed by walking across the Marazion beach and tidal causeway.

St. Ives St. Ives is a beautiful, hip village with a Mediterranean vibe and a large harbor that is excellent for swimming or walking during low tibe. Spend a few hours perusing its cobblestoned streets and admiring the views from its beaches and harbor. The town also has a lovely, independent boutique scene. We especially loved Sweetlime (international-inspired jewellery and home goods) and The Painted Bird (ethically sourced home goods and gifts).

Tate St. Ives An art gallery overlooking Porthmeor Beach that features modern and contemporary British works. Artists have flocked to St. Ives since the 19th century for its beautiful natural light and landscapes, and the Tate is just one of the village’s many art galleries.

Barbara Hepworth Museum & Sculpture Garden Linked to the Tate, this museum and sculpture garden feature the works of Barbara Hepworth, a modernist English sculptor and artist.

STAY

St. Ives is a great base from which to tour the rest of western Cornwall, as it has three beaches right in town, a great restaurant and pub scene, boutiques, galleries and more. You pay for the convenience, however, and finding parking can be difficult unless it is included with accommodation. We enjoyed staying at this two bedroom HomeAway property with sea views on a quiet street. St. Ives is small and most properties within the village provide easy access to all it has to offer. However, it is quite hilly with narrow streets and those who are less mobile may find it difficult to walk around.

Those looking for something a bit quieter or more affordable than St. Ives should look just a few miles southeast in Carbis Bay, a family-friendly seaside resort village with its own beach. The train from Carbis Bay to St. Ives takes approximately three to five minutes and costs just £1 each way.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Western Cornwall

Rye

One of the prettiest and best-preserved medieval market towns in the United Kingdom, Rye is a few hours east of London in Sussex. This former port town is mere miles from the seaside and picture postcard perfect. Rye has it all with a nearby nature reserve and beach, charming cobble-stoned streets, antique boutiques and adorable pubs. A trip to Rye is a lovely way to spend a weekend.

Take a Southeastern train line from London St. Pancras Station to Rye Station in 1 to 2 hours, depending on the service. If you are coming from London and have a bike, bring it! Biking is the perfect way to traverse the three miles from the town to the nature reserve and coast.

EAT

Marino’s Fish Bar Classic fish and chips in a humble establishment.

The Mermaid Inn This restaurant, pub and inn dates back to the 12th century (though the current building was built in the 15th). It’s on the prettiest street in Rye, and maybe the United Kingdom, wethinks.

DRINK

Rye Waterworks Micropub This 300 year old former water-pump is now a teensy craft brewery. Super friendly local vibe.

The Ship Inn A 16th-century inn and pub just a block from the River Brede. Apparently it used to be a halfway house for smugglers.

Ye Olde Bell Inn It calls itself the oldest pub in Rye!

PLAY

Camber Sands This beach and dune area is three miles away but an easy bus ride from Rye. Recommended by a friend.

Mermaid Street Perhaps the most charming street in England, it is lined with medieval, Shakespearean style buildings.

Rye Harbour Natural Reserve This local nature reserve is over 1000 acres and was an important historic fortification in the 14th, 16th and 20th centuries. Buses travel regularly from Rye Station to Rye Harbour village and Winchelsea Beach near the Reserve.

St Mary’s Church A church has stood on this site for more than 900 years. Climb the bell tower for a gorgeous view of the town and sea and explore the ancient graveyard.

Strand Quay Great vintage, knick knack and homeware shopping.

Ypres Tower and Rye Castle This 13th century castle is now a quaint little museum. There is also a pretty view from the top of the tower of the coast.

STAY

Rye is an easy day trip from London but we’d recommend an overnight stay. Choose a quaint Airbnb within walking distance of the tiny town or the nature reserve. Alternatively, Rye Windmill is a historical bed and breakfast just a short walk from the town center. Recommended by a friend.

Rye

London

Founded by the Romans, the capital of the United Kingdom is over 2000 years old. Today’s city rests upon ancient layers of civilization, a network of rivers and the rubble of The Blitz. While there is much to love about London, its prevailing medieval structures, winding streets, village-esque neighborhoods and diverse population are especially charming. #LondonIsOpen

If arriving into Heathrow, there are a few options for getting to the city. The first is via the Heathrow Express, which is a 20 minute ride into Paddington Station. Purchase round trip tickets in advance to get the best price. If you are traveling in a twosome, the DuoSaver is a great deal at £55 for return tickets. Another option is to take the Piccadilly Tube line (purple), which will get you to central London in about an hour. You can also take an Uber or taxi, which may make sense if you are a group. However, unless you are staying in West London this may take the longest and be the most expensive.

If arriving into Gatwick, take the Gatwick Express train (30 minutes) into Victoria Station.

Traffic is notorious. London is far reaching and while it can take time to get across the city, the Tube is efficient, clean and extensive. Purchase a £5 blue Oyster card for easy tapping into London’s Tube and bus network.

CENTRAL

EAT

Dishoom Delicious Indian in trendy locales. Hot tip: the Kensington and Kingly Court locations are often less crowded.

Ergon Deli Greek deli and cafe in Mayfair. Get the sesame bagel with eggs.

Fabrique Bakery Scandinavian bakery with locations in Shoreditch, Notting Hill and Covent Garden. Try the cardamom buns.

The Good Egg Healthy Jewish and Middle Eastern food in Kingly Court.

Gymkhana Michelin-stared Indian in Mayfair. One for special celebrations.

Leong’s Legend Unassuming Taiwanese dim sum in Chinatown.

Mildred’s Tasty vegetarian restaurant in Soho.

The Palomar Modern Israeli fare from the same group behind Machneyuda in Jerusalem. Book two months in advance for dinner.

DRINK

68 Wine Bar Soho wine bar with an NYC vibe. Long list of bottles for £20 each.

The French House Small pub in Covent Garden that used to be a gathering place for the literary crowd.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’t oldest wine bar. This Embankment spot is located within subterranean vaults, and has a lovely outdoor patio for sunny days.

Milk and Honey Fancy cocktails at a Soho speakeasy.

New Evaristo Club Tiny dive bar in Soho that was featured on Anthony Bourdain’s The Layover. Try to go before 11pm.

The Wolseley Old World European bistro near St. James. Go for tea and book ahead.

PLAY

Big Ben and Parliament

The British Museum. Free and open every day.

Buckingham Palace Changing of the guards is at 11am every day.

The Churchill War Rooms An excellent way for history buffs to spend a few hours.

Marylebone High Street A cute spot for shopping with trendy boutiques, quaint cafes and dreamy book stores.

The National Gallery A national treasure with works by Vermeer, Titian, Cézanne, Monet, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and many more.

St. Paul’s Cathedral This Anglican cathedral has been a worship site for over 1000 years.

Tate Britain This free art museum hosts both historical (from 1500) and contemporary British art in a leafy neighborhood along the Thames.

Tower of London A medieval castle, founded in the 11th century, that sits in the center of the city. Visit the crown jewels and notorious Tower of Terror.

West End Catch one of London’s many Broadway shows in this part of town.

Westminster Abbey Get tickets online if you fancy viewing Poets Corner and the Tomb of the Tudor sisters inside.

STAY

If work is paying and proximity to the sites, restaurants and nightlife is important, we recommend choosing a hotel in Soho, Covent Garden or Westminster. The Courthouse Hotel in Soho is lovely and close to everything.

For a more authentic experience, consider an AirBnb in one of London’s many “village-esque” neighborhoods. See more below.

EAST

EAT

Butchies This Shoreditch shop serves up the best fried chicken on this side of the Atlantic. While this one is recommended by a friend who lives locally, we plan to make a visit ASAP.

Cay Tre Authentic (and cheap!) Vietnamese in a BYOB setting in Shoreditch.

DRINK

10 Bells Traditional pub near Spitalfields that is rumored to be the lcoation of a Jack the Ripper murder.

Callooh Callay Speakeasy style cocktail bar in Shoreditch. Make a booking.

Martello Hall Industrial style pub in South Hackney that is open late on the weekends.

Netil360 Relaxed roof-top bar in South Hackney.

NT’s A hip loft bar with a deck in South Hackney.

PLAY

Brick Lane Historically home to a South Asian immigrant community, this neighborhood is sadly gentrifying. The immigrant community has left their mark behind in the mosque, Indian restaurants and sweet shops that dot Brick Lane. There is a street market every Sunday.

Columbia Road Flower Market East London flower market held every Sunday, rain or shine, before 2pm.

STAY

East London is younger, hipper and a bit more of a party scene. Check out Shoreditch, Hoxton or Hackney.

NORTH

EAT

Camden Market Food stalls and stuffs, this outdoor food market features Yorkshire pudding burritos, katsu chicken burgers, halloumi fries and many more nifty concoctions.

La Creperie de Hampstead Tiny crepe cart on the Hampstead high street. Try the mushroom, cheese and tarragon.

The Spaniard’s Inn This 16th century former inn is great place for a pub lunch.

DRINK

The Flask Historic and cozy Hampstead pub.

PLAY

Camden Town The old rock and roll neighborhood, Camden is still gritty and its Camden Market is great for eating and shopping.

Hampstead Heath Wilderness in the city. This large park has great views of the city, hiking trails and natural swimming pools.

Primrose Hill This hill in Regent’s Park has an excellent view of the city.

STAY

In the north, we love Islington, Angel and Kings Cross. There will be lots of AirBnb options in all of these neighborhoods.

WEST

EAT

Bluebelles Delicious and adorable brunch spot on north Portobello Road in Notting Hill.

Lisboa Patisserie Perhaps the best Portuguese bakery in all of London, this Notting Hill institution usually has a line outside on the weekend.

Pizza East Quality pizza. Locations in Shoreditch, Kentish Town and Portobello Road.

The Tin Shed Small, adorable cafe in Notting Hill with a quaint garden out the back. Go for a quiet brunch before hitting the busy market on Portabello Road.

DRINK

The Black Lion Situated in a quiet, shady spot along the river, this pub has amazing outdoor space and a fire pit. It’s a perfect spot for a cool summer or chill autumn evening.

Bluebird Posh cocktail bar in Chelsea.

Candella Tea Room This tiny, Alice in Wonderland-type tea shop is an adorable spot for tea in Kensington.

The Churchill Arms The most Instagram-able pub in London.

Electric Diner Hip bar open late on Portobello Road.

Negozio Classica Love this cozy Italian wine bar on Portobello Road. Go for a tipple pre-dinner or stay to share their tasty small plates.

The Orangery Take tea at Kensington Palace!

Union Tavern Canal-side pub north of Notting Hill with outdoor seating.

PLAY

Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens

Chelsea Trendy part of town with cute shops, restaurants and beautiful, old Victorian pubs. Take a walk down King Street.

Little Venice Three canals meet in this lovely neighborhood just west of Paddington Station. From Little Venice take a 45 minute canal boat through Regent’s Park up to Camden Town.

Portobello Road Market A Notting Hill street market held every Friday and Saturday. Great for antiques, artisanal gifts, food stalls and eclectic bric a brac.

V&A Design Museum One of the world’s leading museums on decorative arts and design.

STAY

In the West, both Notting Hill and Kensington are close to the park and have easy access to the city. Check out AirBnbs in both neighborhoods.

SOUTH

EAT

Borough Market This foodie haven near London Bridge features with fresh produce, craft drinks and gourmet food stalls. A market has operated on this site since the 12th century.

Joe Public Super casual American-style pizza place right next to the Clapham Common tube station. Order pizza by the slice or pie to go, or eat at the picnic tables outside.

José Spanish tapas bar in Bermondsey. Great for a late dinner with friends after enjoying the Beer Mile.

Kin + Deum Delicious Thai food at a cute spot in Bermondsey. Don’t miss the spiced rice salad!

DRINK

The Bermondsey Beer Mile Craft beer breweries on a mile long strip.

Flat Iron Square Highly recommend this outdoor bar and food court (food stalls are on rotation).

The King & Co. Unassuming, local pub near Clapham Common with a solid list of craft beers on tap and a rotating kitchen.

PLAY

Clapham Common This flat, expansive parkland in South London is a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon picnicking. It’s also only a two mile walk (about 30 minutes) from Battersea Park along the river.

Greenwich Home to the Prime Meridian longitudinal line, this historical borough on the Thames River is known for its rich naval history, the 19th century Cutty Sark ship (now a museum), Royal Naval College and Royal Observatory. Catch a ferry from Westminster to Greenwich and enjoy the view.

Tate Modern Britain’s home to contemporary and modern art holds place of pride in Southwark along the Thames. Their Tate Lates take place on the last Friday of every month and feature free entrance, DJs and street food set-ups.

STAY

On the south bank of the Thames, look in Bermondsey. It’s a short walk from the busy London Bridge area and where all the cool kids hang.

London

Bath

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Bath has been celebrated for its natural hot springs for nearly two millennium. The Romans called it Aquae Sulis, the waters of Sulis, during their occupation of Britain and left behind the ruins of a massive bathhouse complex. This historically fashionable town was frequently recommended as a place for R&R for the British upper class. It was also home to Jane Austen in the 19th century.

From London take a one and a half hour train direct to the Bath Spa Station.

EAT

Blue Quails Deli A charming spot for breakfast, coffee or lunch near the Pulteney Bridge.

Chez Dominique Romantic and cozy French restaurant with a good wine list.

Sally Lunns House Good luck getting a seat. Try the Lunn bun. Recommended by a friend.

DRINK

Roots & Shoots Friendly, vegan cafe near the train station.

The Bell Inn Not for the faint (or sober) of heart, but a fun dive with live music.

PLAY

Artisan Market A Saturday market at Queen Square.

Bath Abbey Medieval splendor.

The Circus and The Royal Crescent The terraced houses of both areas are some of the greatest examples of Georgian architecture in England.

Pulteney Bridge

The Roman Baths Visit the museum and ruins of a nearly two thousand year old bathhouse.

Thermae Spa The verdict is still out on this three-level spa. It is one of the only places today to bath in hot spring pools and has a stunning view from the roof-top pool. But, we felt the water temperature was too low and the £40 weekend entrance fee too high.

STAY

Bath is small and busy on the weekends, so stay within walking distance of the Baths and Abbey. We loved No. 15 Great Pulteney, a charming, boutique hotel on a beautiful street.

Bath

The Cotswolds

The quaintest countryside towns you ever did see! The Cotswolds offer stunning vistas of magical, sheep-dotted farms and hills. Visit the Cotswolds any time of year. Driving is the easiest, but it is possible to train from London to Moreton-on-Marsh, with a stopover in Oxford.

If you are driving from London, carve out a few hours to tour the great house and grounds of World Heritage site Blenheim Palace, Winston Churchill’s ancestral home.

EAT

The Cotswold Cheese Company With locations in Moreton-on-Marsh, Stow-on-the-Wold and Burford, this shop stocks locally made farmhouse and artisan cheeses. Try the Stilton!

The Cotswold Chocolate Company Locally, handmade chocolates with natural ingredients. Shops in Broadway and Stow-on-the-Wold.

The Peacock Oxhill 15th century pub a 10 minute drive from the villages of Upper and Lower Tysoe in the northern Cotswolds. Great for lunch or dinner.

The Swan Pub + Restaurant 16th century pub (with a remaining, exposed wall!) in Broadway with delicious food and an outdoor garden.

Sweet Memory’s Homemade fudge in Bourton-on-the-Water.

DRINK

The Bell Inn Traditional pub in Moreton-in-Marsh’s with an outdoor beer garden. The pub is rumored to have served as inspiration for J.R.R. Tolkien’s “The Prancing Pony” pub in Middle Earth.

Lucy’s Tea Room Adorable spot in Stow-on-the-Wold. Take tea in the garden.

Lygon Wine Bar Chic, cozy wine bar in Broadway with a roaring fire.

The Swan Hotel in Bibury Peaceful place for afternoon tea on the River Coln in the picturesque town of Bibury. Try the local trout.

PLAY

Broadway Tower This one mile, uphill hike from Broadway’s high street to the Cotswold’s tallest castle offers stunning views of the town below.

Hike through the villages and countryside Many of the villages are near each other and connected by trails. Stow-on-the-Wold, the Slaughters, and Bourton-on-the-Water are all within easy walking distance from each other.

Shop the medieval, honeycomb-colored villages Visitors will be treated to local, homemade specialties, including jams, honeys, chutneys, mustards and more.

St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold The medieval church’s west door is said to have captured J.R.R. Tolkien’s imagination in creating “The Doors of Durin”.

STAY

AirBnB a cozy cottage We’ve enjoyed stays at Honeysuckle Cottage in Tysoe and Old Sheepcote in Broadway.

Old Farm This 15th century B&B is a working farm and a mile’s walk through sheep fields to the Moreton-in-Marsh town and train station.

The Cotswolds